Jackson Care Sheet

General Information
Jackson Chameleons (Chameleo Jacksoni) found in East Africia , Kenya and Tanzania. In the 70's this species was brought into the wilds of Hawaii. They are now well established in the Hawaii Island and a large breeding population now exits there. Another interesting fact about Jacksons is that they have live births where as other chameleons like panthers and veileds lay eggs. When purchasing a chameleon of any species we recommend captive bred. This is because they are more likely to be healthier and free of parasites.
HOUSING:
When housing your Jacksons you will want to house them individually, they are very territorial and like to live alone. When they are full grown we recommend housing them in the biggest screen or wall-less (chameleon condo) cage that is suitable for your living arrangement. A common cage size that is suitable for your chameleon is 20"W X 18"D X 30"H. But larger is always better.
When choosing a set up for your Jacksons cage, you will want to provide plenty of perches and plants for them, in there natural habitat they prefer to live in mountain thickets and forest(just to give you an idea).

HEATING & LIGHTING:
During the day a good temperature for your jacksons cage should be approx. 80-85 degrees near their basking light and 70-80 degrees throughout the rest of the cage. This way the chameleon can roam the cage to regulate its own temperature at its own will. At night the cage should drop approx. 10 degrees throughout the whole cage. If you are turning off your chameleons heat at night, do not let your house temperature drop below 60 degrees. Your chameleon also needs to have UVB, this is ultra violet radiation provided by the sun. This is important in maintaining your chameleons health. Their are a number of artificial lights that give off ultra violet radiation, we recommend using Nature Zones "High Noon" UVB & Heat Bulb. This bulb gives off plenty of heat and UVB.
FEEDING:
When feeding your chameleon you will want to vary their diet as much as possible. You can feed them crickets, stick bugs and superworms to name a few. It is important to dust your chameleons food with calcium/mineral supplements. Also very important is gutloading your chameleons food, for example: if you are going to feed your chameleon crickets you should feed the crickets nutritious supplements such as, Fluker's high calcium cricket feed. Their are a number of other brands, this is just the one we personally use. You can check out our reptile supplies for more gutloading products.
HYDRATION:
It is very rare that you can find a chameleon that will drink out of a bowl. Chameleons need moving water to catch their eye, the most effective way to accomplish this is by using a drip system. A drip system allows small droplets of water to cause a sparkle when the light hits it that catches your chameleons eye. It also allows water to accumulate on leaves and branches if dripped over a plant properly. This way your chameleon can lick water off leaves and branches. Your chameleon should also be misted a couple of times a day to insure proper hydration. One of the easiest ways to tell if your chameleon is properly hydrated is their eyes, Chameleons eyes are usaully bulging out of their head, if you start to notice your chameleons eyes start to sink in this could be a sign of dehydration and you should seek the attention of a vet immediately.
HANDLING YOUR PET:
It is not recommended that you handle your chameleon very much. This can cause stress and shorten the life span of your chameleon(Jacksons are considered a long living chameleon their life expectancy is up to 10yrs.)From my experience some chams like being handled, but my advice is: get to know your pet, all chameleons have different personalities. Once you get to know your chameleon you will know what he/she likes and dislikes and you should respect that.

Mellers Care Sheet
Mellers chameleon, one of the largest chameleon species or the largest.
Mellers are an African species of chameleon that originate in Tanzania.
They are 4 inches form birth and over 22 inches when they've reached
the age of being an adult. They are mainly green with black spots and yellow or gray diagonal stripes. They also have 2 ear flaps similar to the elephant eared chameleon and have a ridge on their nose (i wouldn't really call it a horn) , a wavy ridge starts from behind the ear flaps and goes down
two-thirds of their tail. i have heard that you can sex them by the black spot behind the ear flaps (spot shown male, no spot female) but to my experience it isn't correct.

from birth they will eat small meal worms and pinhead crickets as they get older the appropriate food item/s will be needed according to their size and if you can get anoles that are not parasite ridden or if there aren't any pesticides in your area, they will make great food items for larger mellers chameleons.

because this is such a large species they need very big enclosures, a wood built, wire mesh enclosure would be best. 5'tall,3'wide,3'long is an ideal enclosure
for a juvenile to adult size. a gravid female mellers chameleon will lay 25 to 70 eggs they will hatch 5 to 7 months at 72 to 78 degrees