Species
The green anole (Anolis carolinensis) is the only anole native to the U.S.; to 9" snout-vent length (stl). Other species commonly available in the pet trade or found in the wild:
A. equestris (Cuban, or Knight, anole; to 20" stl)
A. garmani (Jamaican Giant (or crested) anole; to 11" stl)
A. sagrei (Brown anole; to 9" stl)
A. cybotes (Bighead anole; to 8" stl)
A. disticus (Bark anole; to 5" stl)
A. cristatellus (Puerto Rican crested anole; to 7" stl)
For a complete list of species and links to photos, see the EMBL Database listing for Polychrotidae
Anoles are sometimes called "chameleons." This is due to their color-changing ability of the green anoles, especially, who when severely stressed or ill will turn dark brown. They are not true chameleons, species of lizards who look very different than anoles and come from different parts of the world. If your green anole is always brown, it is a sign of stress.
Origin, Habitat And Habits
Found in Southeastern USA, Cuba, Jamaica, and other Caribbean islands. Only the green anole is native to the U.S.; all others are released or escaped pets, many of which have survived and bred in the U.S.; the other six species are native to the Caribbean islands. The vast majority of green anoles sold in the pet trade are wild caught in the Southeastern U.S. There are over 36 species of non-native anoles breeding in the wilds in Florida (out of an estimated total of 250 anole species in the world), and there has been considerable interbreeding so markings may be considerably altered from the true wild types.
Habitat
Found in bushes, trees (not above 15'), in and on rock walls, woods, around houses.
Habits
Primarily terrestrial, these diurnal lizards inhabit low bushes and the ground underneath. Often found sunning on exposed walls and branches.
Diet
Wild diet includes grubs, crickets, cockroaches, spiders, moths, any arthropod which will fit in their mouths. In captivity, avoid 'sowbugs' (aka potato bugs, pill bugs) and beetles. Even though anoles will go for bigger prey, the size fed to them should be no bigger than 1/2 the size of the anoles head.
Captive Housing
Anoles are best kept singly or in groups. Generally, males should be kept singly or in the company of two or more females.
Minimum tank size for a group of two adult anoles would be a tall 10 gallon tank. Three or four (one male and up to three females) anoles may be kept in a 20 gallon tall aquarium (48" x 13" x 20"). The more lizards there are, the more hiding places and basking areas needed, so tanks must get correspondingly larger.
Minimum Requirements:
Despite their relatively inexpensive price tag, anoles are not "cheap" lizards. The basic captive environment requires:
Not appropriate for anoles:
Temperatures
Basking area: 85-90 F available in daytime only
Overall thermal gradient: 75-80 F days, 65-75 F night
Humidity and Water
The ambient enclosure humidity should be maintained around 60-70%...humid but not wet rainforest conditions. Spray plants with purified water (tap water causes hard water spots on plants and glass) a couple times a day, or set up a dripper or mister system.
In the wild, anoles lap off leaves. In captivity, you cannot assume that they will figure out what a water bowl is, so you will need to spray the leaves for them. Some anoles do learn to drink from bowls: you can aid this learning process by setting up a dripper bottle to drip water into a shallow bowl. It is the sight and sound of dripping, splashing water which attracts their attention.
Diet
The anole's captive diet should be as close to their wild diet as possible. Most people feed small crickets and mealworms (the latter of which which most anoles will not take). As with many reptiles, anoles may be scared of prey that is too large for them to handle.
Wild-caught bugs may be accepted eagerly. Make sure the insects are collected from pesticide free area and areas not heavily impregnated with auto exhaust particulates. Stay away from bugs you are not certain of, and ones known to be toxic, such as fireflies.
Feed anoles daily, letting them have as much as they will eat. If crickets are left uneaten in the enclosure, be sure to provide them with proper cricket food and moisture - otherwise, they will eat whatever is handy: your anoles!
Prey insects need to be cared for properly to provide the most nutrition for your lizards. If you cannot find the right size for your lizard, you can order them through the mail from one of the many companies that breed and supply these food items..
Gut-loaded freshly molted crickets and mealworms, every other day - usually 2-3 appropriately sized food items per feeding is fine. If any food is left in the tank, food for the prey MUST be provided. Gut-load 24-48 hours on tropical fish flakes, high protein dry baby cereal, reptile vitamins and fruit.
Foods appropriate for gut-loading include tropical fish flakes; high protein baby cereal mixed with reptile vitamins; ground monkey chow mixed with calcium supplement. Provide moisture by placing pieces of carrots, apple, orange, etc., in the cricket enclosure. Dehydration is the biggest cause of cannibalism in insects.
Temperament
Some anoles may become comfortable with being gently handled. On the whole, however, handling is very stressful to them, and stress will cause them to become ill. Initially, however, all anoles will try to run from you when you go to pick them up and may bite...and they have quite strong bites for being such small, delicate creatures! Biting, as much as it may hurt you, may be more dangerous for them if you jerk your hand away - this can break their jaws or cause teeth to be ripped out. So, handle them as little as possible, and don't jerk your hand if you get bit - put them back in their enclosure so that they can feel something under their feet - that will get them to release you.
They can drop their tails if grabbed there (this is called autotomy), and their fragile toes can be broken or injured if removed ungently from branches, bark or your clothing.
